Freediving Gear: A Beginner’s Guide

I’m often asked by new freedivers what gear I would recommend, so in this post I will talk you through all the things to consider when you are getting kitted out for freediving.

Masks

When buying a mask for freediving, one of the most important things to consider is the volume of the mask - meaning how much air space there is between the lens and your face. This is important because as we dive underwater, every airspace - including in the mask, will compress significantly. This is why it is important to opt for a low volume mask - this will minimise the risk of mask squeeze (damage to the blood vessels and soft tissues of the eyes and face), which can happen as you descend underwater and the air in the mask compresses. Mask squeeze can be avoided by equalising the mask (adding a small amount of air from your nose into the mask) whenever you feel it getting more compressed. The good news is, if you get a low volume mask that fits correctly and is made of super soft silicone, your need to equalise the mask will be significantly reduced. Note that usually the lowest volume masks have two separate eye lenses rather than one large lens, so look out for this when you’re trying masks on.

Key things to consider when buying a mask:

• Low volume

• Soft silicone

• Glass rather than plastic lens (plastic has a tendency to scratch easily)

• Fits your face perfectly - you can test this by leaning your head backwards and resting the mask on your face without using the strap, if there are any large gaps then you will know that this is probably not the best mask for your face shape

Tip: Always try before you buy - it is impossible to know if a mask is going to fit well without trying it on, so go to a dive shop and try a few before buying.

What mask I’m using: Salvimar Noah Mask

Snorkels

Now you may think that all snorkels are the same, but I am here to tell you that they are not! I see a lot of new freedivers using the purge style snorkels which have a corrugated or bendy section - these are not good for freediving, and here’s why. When you’re breathing up they tend to flap around and so there’s more chance of breathing in water which is no fun when you’re trying to relax for an upcoming dive. And there is no need for a purge function because you never dive underwater with the snorkel in your mouth when freediving. So, when buying a snorkel, keep it simple. Personally I buy the super cheap snorkels that are somewhat flexible because you can comfortably shove it in the back of your mask strap if you need to, and if you lose it, it isn’t such a big deal.

What snorkel I’m using: Problue Cobia Flexible Freediving Snorkel

Fins

There are SO many fin options for freedivers, but the main thing to ensure is that you are buying the really long fins rather than the shorter scuba fins. If you’re keen to work on your finning technique for freediving, having long fins is imperative as the way you kick is slightly different than with short fins. Diving with long fins requires you to kick from your hips, not from your knees. Getting used to this method of finning will make you a more efficient freediver, so it’s worth investing in them early on. Freediving fins can range from $100 to over $800, so I will outline the different types, prices and pros and cons.

Plastic Fins: Perfect for beginners

While you’re getting used to using freediving fins, plastic is your best bet. They do the job and they won’t be too upset if you kick a rock or two.

• Rough price: $100-200

• Pros: Cheap & durable

• Cons: Heavy & inflexible - requiring more effort to kick and can put more stress on your ankles

Composite Fins: Great for regular freedivers who fun dive & train regularly

If you find yourself freediving regularly and are looking to upgrade your plastic fins, then composite are a great option. You will find kicking a breeze and can buy your desired stiffness.

• Rough price: $400+

• Pros: More lightweight and flexible than plastic fins meaning more efficiency when kicking, come in a range of stiffness, fun designs

• Cons: Significantly more expensive than plastic fins, easily scratched, somewhat delicate

• Recommended brands: Penetrator, DiveR

Carbon Fins: The best choice for committed freedivers who depth train regularly

For the serious freediver, carbon fins cannot be beaten. You’ll find constant weight freediving effortless, enabling you to conserve oxygen while you’re training.

• Rough price: $550+

• Pros: Super lightweight, flexible, easy propulsion and efficiency, low stress, come in a range of stiffness, fun designs

• Cons: Super delicate and easily damaged, expensive

• Recommended brands: Penetrator, DiveR

What fins I’m using: Penetrator T700X Naked Black - I love Penetrator fins because they are slimmer than all other brands, meaning that you don’t have to do an unnaturally wide kick to avoid them hitting one another.

What foot pockets I’m using: Cetma S-Wing Black (these are great for people with tiny feet like me, as there are very limited options for us!)

Tip: When you’re buying composite or carbon ‘fins’, note that you are usually just buying the fin blades - the foot pockets are bought separately. This is good because you can buy foot pockets that fit you well, but not so good as they are an additional cost (usually $100-200).

Wetsuits

While a steamer is fine while you’re starting out, if you’re planning on freediving regularly, your best bet is to invest in a two-piece freediving suit. Freediving requires a thicker wetsuit than regular underwater activities as you are aiming to keep your heart rate low and expend as little energy/oxygen as possible, and so you get cold a lot quicker than you usually would. Freediving suits are two-piece - with either high waisted bottoms or long johns and a hooded top. This design is great because it means your core has double the thickness of neoprene which keeps you warmer longer. You lose most of your heat through your head and so having the hood is great for the cooler months. The two-piece provides added flexibility, making duck diving a lot easier than in a one-piece. I would always suggest buying an open-cell wetsuit rather than closed-cell. Open-cell is smooth on the inside and sticks to your skin, making them much warmer. Thickness wise, I use a 3.5mm open cell in summer, or a 5mm in winter. Though you could probably use either of these year round (in Sydney).

Tip: Always use wetsuit lube (preferably water based) when getting into an open-cell wetsuit otherwise it is nearly impossible and you may end up tearing the suit. And make sure the size you buy is tight - if it’s easy to get on then it’s probably too big. If your suit has any loose areas, water will end up flushing through and you won’t stay warm. It’s worth noting that wetsuits loosen over time and so if it’s really tight to begin with, chances are it will be comfortable in no time.

What wetsuit I’m using: Waihana Goliath Grouper (note that shipping to Aus is $$$)

Weight Belts & Weights

When buying a weight belt for freediving, always choose rubber over fabric belts. They are more expensive, but the weights stay put, whereas they have a tendency to slide around the fabric belts which is super annoying. All freediving weight belts are quick release meaning they can be dropped in one quick manoeuvre. 

Weight wise, the general rule is to use 1kg of lead per mm thickness of neoprene, for example, if you’re wearing a 5mm suit, you should use 5kgs of weight. This isn’t always the case as everyone’s body make up is different, so it’s imperative to do a buoyancy check at the start of your dive. To do this you take a full inhale, then do a passive (not full) exhale, and see whether you float or sink. If you are correctly weighted, the waterline should be at your eye-level. If you sink further than this, you are overweighted, and if your head is above the surface, you are underweighted.

What weight belt I’m using: Marseille Rubber Weight Belt

Tip: If you plan to use your weights in the pool, opt for rubber coated lead weights to ensure you don’t damage the tiles.

Hopefully this post was helpful in giving you a little bit of an insight into buying your first freediving kit!

Another world awaits…

See you in the water soon.