Exploring The Limestone Coast on One Breath
Recently I packed my thickest wetsuit and headed to, arguably, Australia’s best dive location - Kilsby Sinkhole in Mount Gambier, South Australia. Little did I know that this dive site was one of many otherworldly locations that occupy the Limestone Coast. Despite the weather Gods not playing ball, we had the most incredible experience here. In this post, I will talk you through some of these magical spots, which have quickly made it to the top of my list of favourite places to freedive.
Kilsby Sinkhole
It’s world famous for a reason - an inconspicuous freediving mecca, nestled in the middle of a working sheep farm, Kilsby Sinkhole is a unique geological structure which has been formed over millions of years. Smaller than I had envisaged, the sinkhole allows for intimate diving experiences - we had it to ourselves during every one of our dives. Dropping the line to 22m, you can easily see the bottom weight - something I have never previously experienced when line training. As you surface from the depths, you are surrounded by a whole variety of vibrant green plants which line the ridged walls, giving it the feeling of diving in an aquarium (minus the fish). Although we did see a cute little frog who stopped for a rest on a fellow diver’s head, as well as the resident turtle that calls the sinkhole home.
As ever, when I embark on any sort of freediving trip, the weather decided to take a dark turn with rain and thunderstorms forecast for the entirety of the trip, so our visions of basking in the famous Kilsby light beams were dashed…almost. On our final dive, the ominous clouds parted and the sinkhole was soaked in sunrays, lighting up the crystal blue water, finally giving us what we had all been waiting for. I frantically grabbed the camera and an unwitting diver and managed to snap a few long awaited shots. As quickly as it came, the light disappeared, ending our time at Kilsby Sinkhole, but with a few beautiful mementos of it in all its glory.
Piccaninnie Ponds
It’s a big claim I know, but this may be my favourite freediving spot so far - Piccaninnie Ponds really is like diving on a different planet. Walking through the tall reeds to reach the entry point, you would have no clue of the world that awaits beneath this modest duck pond. Once you sink beneath the surface, you’re immersed in crystal clear water, filtered by the surrounding limestone. But the best part? The freshwater which rises to the surface under pressure has caused erosion, carving a weakness in the limestone to form The Chasm - a long, thin crevice which descends into the darkest depths of the pond, over 100m deep. Limb-like fluorescent green algae tendrils rise from the rock walls creating an eerie, alien-like feel to this spot. If you look closely, you might be lucky enough to spot a freshwater eel camouflaged within.
Ewens Ponds
Diving here feels like taking a leisurely stroll through the countryside on a summer’s day. As soon as you dive in you’re surrounded by an abundance of bright green plants and aquatic life. With endless visibility you can easily see from one end of this huge pond to the other. What makes this spot especially unique are the thin channels that connect one pond to the next. Like floating down a lazy river, you don’t even need to swim, just lay back and watch the scenery as you slowly drift through the reeds into the next pond. You might find yourself surrounded by ducks like we did at one point too, which was quite the novelty.
Little Blue Lake
A great place to train depth, the Little Blue Lake lacks the crystal clear clarity of the other sites (at least when we were there), but it definitely has its redeeming features. Perfectly round with bright blue water, you can dive to depths of over 30m here. Breathing up on the surface was a serene experience (even in the pelting rain), with the surface temperature a balmy 23 degrees. Once you descend you experience a refreshing thermocline to snap you out of your slumber.
Before I left for this trip, I already knew that South Australia boasts some incredible diving experiences. Last winter, I ventured to the remote location of Whyalla to witness the annual Cuttlefish migration - a spectacular natural wonder which I’ll tell you about in my next post. I will certainly be returning to South Australia again soon, with Port Lincoln’s sea lions and the great white shark dive of the Neptune Islands at the top of the list.
Another world awaits!
See you in the water soon…